Kosher wines can satisfy a discriminating
wine drinker and accompany any dish from
brisket to blintzes. They continue to gain
the approval of wine critics and their
growing sales indicate increasing consumer
acceptance.
Kosher wines are produced all
over world, including California, New
Zealand, Australia, South Africa, Italy,
Portugal, Spain and Israel. In France some
of the most prestigious wine producers are
making kosher wines. “If the French masters of the art of winemaking
have accepted kosher wine into their ranks
then Kosher wine has truly arrived,”
declares Martin Davidson, spokesman for
Royal Wine, a leading importer of kosher
wines and owner of California’s Herzog
winery. Davidson believes that, “the Jewish
community has fortunately graduated up to
complex and sophisticated wines...Consequently, a
better-educated buyer can now refine their
appreciation in viniculture, knowing there
is enough fine wine out there to accommodate
a demanding and discerning palate.”
A wine
can be certified kosher only if the
equipment used is exclusively for kosher
wines. While anyone can pick the grapes, the
entire winemaking procedure must be
supervised by Shabbat-observant Jews and
only kosher materials can be utilized. No
artificial colorings or preservatives are
permitted and if the wine is to be served by
non-Jews the wine must be briefly heated to
make it “Mevushal.” This heating process is
often performed at non-kosher wineries as
well and apparently does not adversely
affect the flavor profile. In fact, one
prominent wine critic prefers the mevushal
version of a famous Bordeaux over their
regular release.
A word
of caution: Not all wines produced in Israel
are kosher. The increased expense of kosher
supervision and the need to adhere to
specific agricultural rules means that
nearly all small Israeli wineries start out
nonkosher. Most eventually opt to become
kosher, once sales have increased
sufficiently or because they wish to be
stocked in the larger Israeli markets. Most
Israeli wines released in the US are kosher,
but it is always best to check the label.
Here
are some kosher red wine suggestions for
this year's holiday season:
A gold
medal winner at the Mediterranean
International Wine Challenge is the
Psagot Edom 2004 ($ 26), a blend of 75 %
Cabernet Sauvignon and 25 % Merlot from the
Psagot winery located in Israel’s Judean
Hills. Proprietors Na’ama and Ya’akov Berg
aged this gem in oak for 14 months in a cave
containing ancient winemaking equipment and
90 % humidity. It is medium bodied with
blackberry and currant flavors and a mild
spicy oakiness along with red fruit on the
finish.
Barkan Altitude 624 Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
($ 33) is another terrific wine from the
second largest winery in Israel. Produced
from their Alma vineyard located 624 meters
(hence the name) high in the northern Galil,
it is full-bodied with vanilla and red fruit
aromas along with well balanced raspberry
and spicy black plum flavors.
Founded in 1870 to make sacramental wines,
Efrat only began producing table wines in
the 1990s. They recently changed their name
to Teperberg Family Estate and moved
into new facilities in the Samson Valley of
the Judean Hills. The lovely and
value-priced Teperberg Family Estate
Meritage 2005 ($ 12) is a Bordeaux-like
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Cabernet Franc with soft blueberry, currant
and chocolate flavors with a touch of
leather and anise.
Located in the heart of France’s Bordeaux
region and owned by the banking side of the
Rothschild dynasty is Chateau Clarke
producer of the Barons de Rothschild
Haut-Medoc 2003 ($ 29). It is medium
bodied with noticeable spicy oak along with
cherry and blackberry notes. A more
extravagant purchase for the holidays is
also from Bordeaux. The exceptional
Chateau Pontet-Canet 2003 ($ 99) is a
full bodied effort with smoky currant,
chocolate, anise and black fruit flavors
with enough structure to last for years. A
perennial favorite is the very good
Hagafen Cellars Syrah 2003 ($ 29) that
has deep red and black cherry flavors and
hints of pepper, chocolate and toasty oak.
Worth
searching out are the wines produced by the
Hafner Family Estate located in Austria’s
oldest winemaking area. Formerly a part of
Hungary, the Sheva Kehillos, (seven communities)
was well known for kosher wine production.
Starting in 1980 with only two wines, Hafner
now offers a wide range of styles and
varietals including noteworthy dessert wines
and grappa. The Hafner Selection Kashmir
Neusiedlersee 2003 ($ 20) is an
outstanding value with coffee and caramel
aromas, dark berry and spice flavors and a
long fruity finish.
Look
to South Australia’s Altoona Hills Winery
for some value-priced wines including the
Altoona Hills Cabernet Merlot 2006
($ 8) with plum and raspberry notes as well
as the Altoona Hills Shiraz 2005 ($
8) that has peppery blackberry flavors.